In response to a reader’s request for more direction to mount the hinges on the Schoolhouse Regulator Clock, designer/builder Robert J. Settich offered the following advice.

Figure 4 in Issue #30 (page 55) shows the door from the back. And Photo G on page 56 shows how you fold the hinge back on itself to set the projection: the barrel of the hinge is past the surface of the door frame side (part E). Here’s an additional tip for you: When I’m working with small hinges, I put a piece of double-faced tape on the leaf of the hinge so it won’t slide.

I’ve also attached a couple of additional sketches. The one named Door_Hinge is a different view of how the hinge block (J) relates to the other parts. Its function is to create a mounting surface for the hinge that’s flush with the edge of the door. Click Here

Next, refer to the drawing called Door_Install. This shows a 1/16" spacer under the door’s edge. This creates clearance so that the door can swing without scraping the surface of the frame (E). I mentioned this spacer in the article, but the drawing makes it easier to understand. I originally wanted to include a photo of this procedure in the article, but there's never enough room to include all the words, drawings, and photos that we would like to have. Click Here

Regarding the clock face angle:

Figure 6 should indicate that each angle of the dial segments (L) is cut at 22.5 degrees.

For your future reference, here's an easy way to figure a situation such as this: The angled cuts of an enclosed shape total 360 degrees. In the case of this regular octagon (with all sides identical), there are sixteen cuts on the ends of the pieces. 360 divided by 16 = 22.5 degrees. With a mitered four-sided box, there are eight cuts of 45 degrees: 8 x 45 = 360 degrees. This system also works when there are a mixture of angles, such as the door frame shown in Figure 2 on page 54. Add up all of the internal angles, and the result will be 360 degrees.

A reader pointed out what he considers to be a dangerous implication in this story—that the use of metal piping eliminates static electricity. To clarify the issue, Editor Jim Harrold explained, “The entire dust collection system needs to be protected from tool collector via metal piping or braided cooper wire establishing a connection from the piping to the tool.”

Not to worry. With the spindles in place, considering the thickness of the wood in the spindles, the spacing measured 21/8" on the sides and 25/8" at the ends. We did not make this clear in the article. For even less spacing, add still another spindle and adjust the spacing between spindles as needed.

• Fig. 3, Keyhole Hanger Mortising Jig, page 24: Position 1 is for routing stile (C); Position 2 is for routing upright (M). Click Here
• Fig 7, Cradle Hanging Detail, page 25: The hanger bolt side is #10-24x1-1/2”. Click Here
• Fig.8, Cradle Side Exploded View, page 26: The upper biscuit location on part G is 2” from the top end and 2-1/2” from the bottom. Click Here
• Fig. 12, Cradle Exploded View, page 27 Fig. 12, Cradle Exploded View, page 27: That part L dadoes are 1/4” deep. Also, the hanger bolt is #10-24x1-1/2”.: That part L dadoes are 1/4” deep. Also, the hanger bolt is #10-24x1-1/2”. Click Here
• Buying Guide Note: #12K10 – You need only one pack of #10-24 Inserts (10 in a pack).

The "Pendulum Doll Cradle" article in Issue 25 (Oct/Nov 08) listed two incorrect dimensions for Part D which includes a 1/2" hole, 5/16" deep.

Fig. 5, Upright & Pendulum Detail (page 31): Part D—The hole diameter was incorrectly listed as 5/16" in this illustration.


Full-Sized Pattern for Pendulum and Upright Top (page 74): Part D—The hole depth was incorrectly listed as 3/8"on the pattern.

The designer/builder for the “A Cut-Above Cutting Board” project story was incorrectly listed as Gary Carter on page 64. The designer/builder is Stephen Johnson whose bio did appear on page page 67.

Steve Rigrish of Columbus, Ohio, should have been identified as the designer/builder of the “Dual-Purpose Deacon’s Bench” on page 29. The Deacon’s Bench is an option included with the Scott Phillips’ “Trestle Table and Benches” project.

Feb/March 08 issue, page 62, "Make the back and trim the columns" section, Step 4: The revised instruction should read, "Cut the columns (A) to the exact length of the back (G) minus the tenons and the thickness of two 1/4" spacers. To do this, lay a column on the back as shown in Photo D, placing a couple of 1/4"-thick spacers to flush the end of the column to the shoulder cut of the tenon. Now you can accurately mark the opposite end. Use a stopblock setup at your mitersaw to ensure that all of the columns are identical in length. Finish-sand the columns and back."

Dec 07/Jan 08 issue, page 10: Note the revised locations of the 3/16" shank holes for the cleats (B) in Figure 1. The 2" measurement should be taken from the toe not the heel where shown at left. Click the image to the right for the enhanced view.

IN RESPONSE TO PHONE CALLS I have received about the “Intarsia George” project (Dec 2007/Jan 2008 issue), I would like to offer some additional information in answer to the most-asked questions. On page 59 in Step 4, rather than “cut the parts just outside the lines,” just cut the outside edges first. Since these cuts do not fit against other pieces, this is a good way to test your scrollsawing skills before cutting the interior parts that have to fit together. Later in the same step instead of trying to “split and save the line,” simply saw through the center of the line. Just remember to leave the paper pattern on. If you encounter a fit problem, trim the pattern lines that are still showing. A few have asked about the “slot-cutting blade” mentioned on page 63. Rotary saw blades are inexpensive and available anywhere Dremel tools are sold. However, for major hair and fur detailing, I prefer using the Wonder Wheel because it enables me to hold the piece with both hands. One final note: I used an aspen dowel to make the white dot on George’s eye. —Judy Gale Roberts (intarsia.com)